One of a trio of single-site iterations of chardonnay. Sand and limestone. The most dynamic in terms of fruit intensity and formidable length. Glazed quince, truffle, cashew and a hint of brulee. Nothing overwrought. The mid-palate, similarly weighted and densely packed, unraveling along a skein of sea-spray freshness with classy oak directives, nicely embedded. Palate-staining, such is the torque and intensity. Yet as with most Aussie exemplars, sophistication is bundled into a package of poise and effortless drinkability. Exceptional stuff. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now. -Ned Goodwin MW (Tasted 2023)

The Chardonnay Calgardup Brook is a super impressive modern and savoury expression of Margaret River Chardonnay from the 2021 vintage with a less than subtle nod to the Côte de Beaune. There is a delightful mix of aromas starting with melon and citrus pith before nutty, nougat and chalky elements start to rise, all beautifully integrated with reserved, high quality oak. Great tension follows between zesty acidity, citrus flavours and gentle grip while the wine retains impressive elegance and composure over a long and sustained finish.

The 2021 Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay is sumptuous and juicy on the palate. The wine is more approachable, briny and floral than the Burnside tasted alongside, and it is moving down a nutty path of toasted cashews, hazelnuts and green almonds. Plumper and broader than the Burnside, the length of flavor however remains long and spooling. This is very impressive, but it will be even better in time. Patience is required. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.