Bright straw-green. White peach and mint aromas are complicated by delicate herbs and chlorophyll on the enticing nose. Intensely flavored and deep, conveying a saline freshness to the stone fruit and herb flavors. Finishes pliant and long, with firm minerality and a suggestion of gingery spices. This Frédéric Emile is more influenced by the Geisberg than the 2014; it's more showy and concentrated than the 2014 Frédéric Emile but perhaps less refined. It'll be great fun to compare these two FE's side by side in ten years time.

Profoundly complex nose, combining the lime and petrol weirdness for which Riesling is renowned. It's a little musty on the palate – not tainted, exactly, but definitely on the mushroomy side. Bone dry, super-lengthy and broad-flavoured. I'm not convinced it's the best bottle of its type, but even then it is very, very good. (RH)