The 2018 Morgon saw a small sulfur dioxide addition just before bottling, and while it exhibits similar aromas of cherries, berries and rose petals, it's a bit more reserved on the palate, with a touch less immediate flesh on its medium to full-bodied frame and its powdery tannins a little more prominent. I suspect that after another six months the two bottlings will be indistinguishable. Drink 2019-2029. WK

Inspired by négociant and microbiologist Jules Chauvet, the late Marcel Lapierre was the ringleader of a revolution in the Beaujolais in the 1980s, working largely without sulfites and favoring cool carbonic macerations followed by élevage in used Burgundy barrels. Lapierre and his circle of friends have left an indelible mark on their region. But Marcel passed away after the 2010 harvest, and for almost a decade, his son Mathieu and daughter Camille have presided over the estate. This remains one of Beaujolais's iconic labels, but have the wines changed? My impression is that they're a little wilder and less consistent than they were when I first started following this domaine in my student days, but that may be skewed by a recent series of ripe, high-sugar vintages that are harder to stabilize.