A tiny, single vineyard wine from Jonathan Malthus, the 2009 Les Asteries is the finest effort I have tasted among the nearly half dozen vintages offered to date. From a vineyard that was once part of Chateau Fonroque, it boasts a dense purple color, a big, sweet perfume of graphite, blueberries, and blackberries, full body, abundant glycerin, beautiful density and succulence, as well as a sumptuous, long (40-45 seconds) finish. Sadly, there are only 300-350 cases of this beauty. It should evolve for 20+ years. (Tasted once.)

With the Merlot picked on 8th October and the Cabernet Franc two days later, matured in 100% new oak with 14.2% alcohol, this has a well defined nose of blackberry, violets, a touch of cassis and limestone, perhaps a little more harmonious than the Le Carre, the palate is full-bodied with sturdy, robust tannins, but I like the balance and the symmetry here, very good weight on the finish, firm structure, fine minerality with a long, rather backward finish that suggests this should be laid down for several years after bottling. Tasted March 2010.