The 2002 Branaire Ducru was partly made with Philippe Dhalluin and Dominique Arangoïts, who said there was a lot of discussion about the blend at the time. It has an open-knit, earthy bouquet with black fruit, wild mint, singed leather and a touch of potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with mainly red fruit, white pepper, clove, a slight grittiness to the tannins but with commendable depth and freshness towards the finish. Fine acidity and bite, this is a Saint-Julien that is à point. Tasted at the château.

The successful 2002 exhibits a beautiful, dense ruby/purple color, a lovely concoction of raspberries, cassis, flowers and licorice in the fragrant aromatics, medium to full body, surprising opulence for a 2002, and soft and supple tannin. A beauty, it is ideal for drinking now and over the next 15+ years.

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 34% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc) Good medium ruby. Reticent but pure nose combines blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate and some exotic spice notes. Sweet and sappy in the mouth, with bright but nicely embedded acids framing the crushed fruit flavors. Finishes with lush, suave tannins and a juicy freshness. A rather primary, cool, moderately ripe Branaire that offers a lovely combination of lively fruit and firm structure.

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 34% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc; 3.82 pH; 12.9% alcohol): Deep red with a pale rim. Dark cherry, dried herbs and underbrush on the nose. Enters the surprisingly big and thick given the rainy vintage, then turns lighter but refined thanks to harmonious acidity, which frames the black fruit and herbal flavors. Finishes with modest complexity, slightly gritty tannins and a trace of alcoholic heat. I'm not sure where this is headed; I'd like to try another bottle in the next year or so. Yields here were only 50.4 hectoliters per hectare, not all that different from the 48 of 2000, a much more famous vintage. The grapes were harvested between September 30 and October 12.