Good full ruby. Very pure violet and black cherry aromas are fresh and lively. Sweet, lush and dense, with bright, clean, perfumed blueberry juice and blackberry compote flavors complicated by gunflint and cedar. Finishes very long and smooth, with a bright mineral overlay. Knockout stuff, and another major success from the Cantenac sector of Margaux in 2013. I believe that technical director Jose Sanfins is one of the least-known highly talented winemakers in Bordeaux, having delivered a string of truly superlative wines in the last decade or so.

The 2013 Cantenac Brown has a lot of damp undergrowth and pencil lead scents on the nose. There is not as much fruit as the Desmirail 2013 tasted alongside. The palate is green on the entry, something that cannot be avoided, and the finish feels dry and bitter. This was a very vexing showing from an estate that has improved in recent years and appears less impressive in bottle than out of barrel. I consider Cantenac Brown to be a Margaux property in the ascendant, so this is perhaps just a misstep in a difficult vintage.

Boosted by sweet oak on the nose and backed up by ripe cherry fruit. There's a lovely stewed character here, without losing freshness. Bright structure and generous fruit. Not concentrated enough to last for decades, but has more conviction than many a 2013. (RH)

Tasted blind. Bright dark crimson. Sweet and almost red-fruited. Fragrant and juicy with fine tannins, just a touch of chocolate on the finish. (JH)