The 1989 Canon is definitely one of the better wines from an inconsistent period for this Saint-Émilion stalwart. The bouquet retains vigor after 30 years, offering mainly red fruit intermingled with leather and an oxtail scent that I have observed in previous bottles. The harmonious palate is well balanced with finer tannin than similarly aged vintages, and slightly animally and Rhône-like on the savory finish, which is liberally sprinkled with black pepper. Preferable to the 1990 Canon. Bottles should be drunk now and in the near future, before the inevitable decline. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London. www.vinous.com

A beautiful wine, and probably the last great Canon until the new administration gets its act completely together, this wine still has a deep ruby/garnet color, with some lightening at the edge. A knockout nose of sweet black fruits (primarily currants) intermixed with a bit of cherry, vanilla, and an almost roasted note is enticing and persistent. Full-bodied, moderately tannic, with excellent extraction, flavor, expansiveness, and texture, this is a pure, impressively endowed Canon. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 10/02.

Starts up slowly on the palate, then builds to lovely, sweet fruit flavors. Dark-ruby color. Dusty, smoky, gamy and berry aromas open to a full-bodied palate with loads of ripe fruit and chocolate and a long, sweet aftertaste. A beauty.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. James Suckling