A terrific sleeper value, Stephan von Neipperg’s 2001 Clos de l’Oratoire boasts a deep blue/purple color as well as a rich nose of melted licorice, espresso roast, black currants, minerals, smoke, and earth. This opulent, medium-bodied St.-Emilion exhibits abundant quantities of fruit and glycerin along with a fleshy, ripe, expansive finish with no hard edges. Some tannin lurks beneath the surface, but this is a beautiful wine to drink now and over the next 10-12 years.

Good medium ruby. Reticent, slightly reduced aromas of black fruits and torrefaction. Dense, sweet and pure if a bit closed today; fairly full, large-scaled, somewhat chunky wine with very good material. Finishes with big, broad, building tannins.

The 2001 Clos de l’Oratoire, aged in 70% new oak, is missing a bit of presence on the nose, which is overshadowed by the aromatics of the previous vintage. It gradually unfolds to reveal light earth and humidor scents, but never really gets out of the starting blocks. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins and vestiges of red fruit. There is something a little New World about this Clos de l’Oratoire, like a mature Bordeaux blend from the Stellenbosch. I would drink this soon.

Green, thick, underripe on the palate yet pruney on the nose. Not for me. Furry tannins. Not appetising. (JR)