This offers creamed yellow apple, green melon and verbena notes surrounded by a brioche and salted butter frame. The long and flattering finish lets a second wave of coconut, candied lemon peel and heather glide through. Clearly on the opulent side of the ledger, but there's a remarkably deft edge here as well. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. JM

No, not a 2016, but since it is the vintage currently for sale, then I will publish my review of the 2015 Ygrec here. The Sauvignon Blanc (75% of the blend) was picked quickly from 25-27 August this year, the Sémillon on 3 and 4 September. It has six grams per liter of residual sugar and the pH, a sizzling 3.20. It has an intriguing bouquet of melted wax, white flowers and hints of sea spray, that marine influence becoming quite strong with aeration. The palate is fresh on the entry with fresh ginger and lemongrass, lively in the mouth with shades of orange rind and sour lemon towards the persistent finish. I would afford this several years in bottle and I suspect you will end up with a very distinctive dry Bordeaux from the most famous Sauternes estate. www.robertparker.com