Another wine from Bernard Magrez, his 2005 Fombrauge (77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon from the largest vineyard in St.-Emilion) is special. More tannic and backward than usual, and much more masculine and bigger-boned, this is a full-bodied, textured and rich wine that should hit its prime in another 4-5 years, and last 15-20. It is a stunning effort from Fombrauge that has still not attained full maturity.

An in-your-face style of wine, the 2005 Fombrauge (the largest vineyard in St.-Emilion) is a blend of 77% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The inky/purple color is followed by a big, sweet nose of chocolate fudge, jammy black cherries, blackberries, smoke, and pain grille. This chewy, powerful, decadent St.-Emilion is a modern-styled, impressively endowed, pure, intense wine. It is another brilliant example of winemaking from proprietor Bernard Magrez. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020+.

(77% merlot, 14% cabernet franc and 9% cabernet sauvignon) Red-ruby. Sweet aromas of black raspberry, currant and mocha. Fat, lush and stuffed with fruit. The black raspberry and mocha flavors are seriously chewy. A very successful vintage for this wine, as even the cabernet sauvignon grapes on this cold clay soil ripened thoroughly.

Tasted blind. Dark crimson with some purple notes. Light nose with a vague hint of lead pencils (Cabernet Franc?). More aromatic lift than most and non-exaggerated structure. Mild relative to many of its peers. Quite appetising and juicy. GV ? (JR)