This is one of the few 1978 Medocs that has not exhibited an increased herbaceousness as it has evolved. The 1978 Grand-Puy-Lacoste remains dark ruby/purple-colored, with a bouquet offering scents of cassis, smoke, and earth. Medium to full-bodied, with fine structure and tannins, this wine combines elegance with authoritative flavors. It is close to maturity, yet it can be cellared for at least 10-12 more years. It may last even longer. Last tasted, 5/93.

The first vintage made under the expert management of Jean-Eugene Borie and his son, Xavier, the 1978 remains a classic Pauillac with fine cellaring potential. Dark ruby garnet with a ripe, intense bouquet of cassis, fruit, cedar, and vanillin oakiness, this wine is rich, with excellent body and the tannins quickly melting away. It can be drunk now or cellared for another decade. Anticipated maturity: Now-2002.

The 1978 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has a ferrous bouquet, fully mature of course, with fresh mint, potpourri and lavender notes. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity and slightly dry tannins. It is pretty meaty with dried blood and black pepper, attenuating just a little on the finish. The 1978 is an old-school Claret through and through, approaching the end of its drinking plateau, so don't hesitate to open any if they're in your cellar.

The first vintage of the Borie era. Brick red with a mahogany edge. Forest-floor and mint aromas and flavour. Still some sweetness to the fruit but clearly evolved. Fresh but with a short, drying finish. Of historical interest but has definitely plateaued. Has held up well, though. (JL)