The 1981 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, poured from a half-bottle, has a bright hue with little signs of aging. Dark berry fruit aromas commingle with mahogany antique bureau and light estuarine scents on the nose, with just a faint hint of boot polish. The palate contains commendable fruit and surprisingly rounded texture, considering the vintage. Though the finish is not complex, it conveys a sense of classicism and elegance, with lingering cedar notes on the aftertaste. This is drinking perfectly now. Tasted at Tsui Village in Hong Kong.

Interesting to try this vintage over the more famous 1982 (apparently lots of English tasters preferred this one at the time). It's a wine with traces of Pauillac tannins and savoury fruits, but these are now very much in autumnal mode, laced with white truffles, rosehips and soy. Not long left on this wine, I would suggest opening bottles that you have. At this point it was in the early years of ownership by the Borie family, who came on board in 1978.

Light in style for Grand-Puy, the 1981 has more in common with the 1979 than either the substantial 1982 or full-bodied, yet elegant 1978. An elegant mixture of ripe berry fruit and spicy oak overlaid with soft tannins makes this wine very easy to drink now. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 4/90.