The 1988 Grand Puy Lacoste has a leafy bouquet, quite rustic in style, certainly what you might describe as “old school” Bordeaux. It reminds me of going up into an attic, but it is utterly charming. The palate is medium-bodied and certainly rather green on the entry. It is surprisingly soft but unlike say the 1990, it does not provide the fruit and substance to back it up. The nose is actually better than the palate but frankly bottles should be consumed in the near future. Tasted at the château.

The 1988 effort from this estate is deep ruby, has a reticent bouquet, an austere, firm, tannic framework, and medium body. The wine has noticeable richness and depth, as well as high tannins. Anticipated maturity: 1995-2005.

78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. Brick hue, light at the rim. Lightly expressive but lifted and fresh. Forest-floor notes again. More interest on the palate which is light- to medium-bodied but lively and zesty and still has a hint of fruit. Some length to the finish but beginning to dry. Unlikely to evolve further. (JL)