(62% cabernet sauvignon) Bright ruby-red. Sappy, pure aromas of plum syrup, black cherry, graphite and bitter chocolate, with a strong floral topnote. Dense, sweet and rather powerful, with strong, slightly candied fruit and a powerful spine. Highly concentrated, youthfully tight Haut-Bailly, finishing with rich, firm tannins and vibrant red berry flavors.

An elegant, dark ruby/purple-tinged effort displaying notes of tobacco smoke intermixed with sweet currant, cherry, and some toast, this medium-bodied wine has the hallmark purity married graciously with nicely concentrated fruit. The tannins are sweet but present and give definition to this well-made Pessac-Leognan. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. This property is making impressive wines under the new administration of American Robert Wilmers backed up by his winemaking team led by Veronique Sanders. I have consistently had a tendency to underrate the wines young since they are relatively delicate, and that style hasn’t changed, but there does seem to be more mid-palate and intensity than in the past. For example, I recently had both the 1998 and 2000 Haut-Bailly, and I would have rated them 93 and 91 respectively, which is higher than I had rated them in the past, adding to my belief that I consistently underestimate these wines.

The 2002 Haut-Bailly is perhaps a little staid on the nose compared to the 2001. Tertiary black fruit and touches of leather, miss the fruit intensity of the previous two vintages. The palate is better with a slightly ferrous, almost Right Bank opening, leather mixed with sage and brown spices. This just shows a little dryness towards the finish. Drink now and over the next five to eight years. Tasted at the Haut-Bailly vertical at the château.

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Usually considered a success for the vintage but disappointing today. Dark core but slightly watery rim. Earthy, bracken notes on the nose. Light to medium-bodied with mid-palate sweetness but short of fruit and drying on the finish. Past its optimum or bottle variation? (JL)