Three late-released bottles of the 1975 Lafite Rothschild were drinking beautifully, soaring from the glass with scents of sweet red berries, camphor, cigar box and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a generous core of fruit, melting tannins and succulent acids, this is a soft, seamless wine despite the inherently firm style of the vintage, and it's at its peak today.

Why is it that Lafite-Rothschild is often so distressingly irregular from bottle to bottle? Much of the inconsistency during the sixties and mid-seventies can be explained by the relaxed bottling schedule, which saw the wines blended and bottled over an unusually long period (12+ months, compared to the estate's modern day bottling operation that never takes longer than 2-4 weeks). I have had some great bottles of the 1975 Lafite, most of them in the wine's first 15 years of life. Since then, I have seen wines that appeared cooked and stewed, with a Barolo tar-like aroma, as well as others with the classic Pauillac, lead-pencil, cedar, cassis, and tobacco aromatic dimension. The 1975 is a powerful Lafite, and troublesome bottles tend to reveal more tannin and funkiness than others, which have a roasted character, combined with a gravelly, mineral underpinning. As this wine has aged, it appears to be less of a sure bet. In most cases, it has been an outstanding wine, as the bottle tasted in December suggested. The aromatics indicate the wine is fully mature, but the tough tannin level clearly underscores the dark side of the 1975 vintage. This wine will undoubtedly last for another 30+ years, but I am not sure the fruit will hold. It is a perplexing wine that may still turn out to be an exceptional Lafite. In contrast, the 1976 has always been much more forward and consistent. However, I would still take the 1975 over the overrated, mediocre 1970, 1966, and 1961.

Robert Parker (Wine Advocate #103, Feb 1996)

Dominated by animal, soy, peat and earth aromatics. The fruit character is open and warm, a little jammy and younger in expression than the 1970 but with less finesse, and will benefit from an hour in a carafe before drinking to soften things up. This was a hot and dry year, and the tannins were plentiful right from the start, full of promise but they took a few decades to soften. They are still a touch dry, although there is plenty of fruit and as it opens there is a clear blast of mint leaf that ensures freshness. I have tasted a number of 1975s recently, and they often make me wonder how many people will have ever opened them at the exactly right moment - most would have either been waiting for the tannins to soften or caught them on the way down. This still has a lot to enjoy, and remains on the plateau for drinking. The first year with Jean Crété as Estate Manager - and a difficult year globally after the oil crisis of the early 1970s (over in London Michael Broadbent held an auction of ex-chateau Lafite vintages from 1945 to 1971 to inject some momentum into the market). 17hl/h yield.