This is a compact cylinder of ripe and fresh fruit with currant, fresh-herb and dry-earth character on the palate. So solid. Full-bodied yet refined and checked in every way. Well-defined, formed and perfect. Just a hint of volcanic salt and iron. Contemplate this one. Try after 2026.

The St Emilion project of the unmatched Jacques Thienpont, owner of Pomerol Legend Le Pin. A truly exceptional example of Merlot in its own right. Ripe fruit and hugely alluring perfume, exotic spice and real character. Incredible sweetness of fruit, intensity of tannins and power - such flavour complexity from blood orange and mandarin through to ripe plum and damson, blackberry liqueur, asian spice. Such sweetness, focus and intensity - juicy, smoky and with a smooth, fine milk chocolate note. Stunningly individual and impressive. - April 2017

The 2016 L'If, 100% Merlot in this vintage, is going to need a number of years to be at its very best. The allure the 2016 showed as a young barrel sample has been replaced with huge structure and prominent yet well balanced tannins that both give the wine its strong-voiced personality. Readers should be prepared to be patient with the 2016, as it is going to need a number of years to be at its very best. Even so, the 2016 is super-impressive in the early going, not to mention a fabulous wine in the making. Cyrille Thienpont gave the 2016 14 months in French oak, 50% new.

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 L'If is a little shy to begin, opening out to show a beautiful red and black plums, kirsch and rose-laced personality, plus hints of tobacco and wild sage. Medium to full-bodied, the palate offers beautifully ripe, satiny tannins and wonderful freshness supporting the elegant, perfumed fruits through the long finish.

The 2016 L’If eschews the Cabernet Franc vines, since they did not perform as well as expected, according to co-proprietor Fiona Morrison. This is matured in 50% new and 50% one-year-old oak for 12 to 16 months. It has a lovely blackberry, wild hedgerow and crushed stone aroma that is very focused and quite delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannin and fairly citric in style. Not deep, but fresh and well-balanced, leading to a structured saline finish. Quite a cerebral L’If that deserves a couple of years in bottle. - vinous.com, Jan 2016

Gives a warm, inviting blast of pure, juicy cherry and plum sauce flavors, with a lightly toasted frame. Pretty anise and black tea notes in the background and a fresh mineral streak on the finish. Grows steadily in the glass too. Sneaky good. - James Molesworth (WineSpectator.com, April 2017)

Very deep crimson. Quite rich and dense with lots of sweetness. Sinewy and savoury end. Quite racy and energetic compared with most St-Émilions. Bracing. Drink 2023-2030. - jancisrobinson.com, April 2017