Impressively youthful at 36 years old, fully delivering on the brief for Pauillac classifieds to be long ageing. The tannins are fully melted into the fruit structure, but still in evidence, giving shape and definition to the brambled autumnal fruit, layered with tobacco, smoked earth and pencil lead, with a cushion of mint leaf running underneath. Jean-Michel Cazes had been in charge since 1973, and by this point had transformed Lynch Bages into one of the wines of the appellation, beginning to rise above its 5th Growth ranking. The 2000 vintage took its time to come around, but is now at a great time to drink, even if there are still decades ahead of it. 70% new oak, Daniel Llhose winemaker.

One of the big surprises is how delicious this wine has turned out. It is a beautiful, classic claret. Dark ruby-colored with purple hues, it reveals aromas of dried herbs, smoke, leather, grilled meats, and copious black cherry and currant fruit. Medium-bodied, powerful, rich, and surprisingly evolved, this vintage has hit its plateau of maturity, where it should remain for another 10-12 years.

The 1988 Lynch Bages is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc, plus 2% Petit Verdot that was picked at the beginning of October. It has a clean fresh bouquet with ample pure blackberry and raspberry notes, touches of graphite and tobacco, vibrant and very satisfying. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, a little meatiness and cedar creeping in towards the finish and long and fresh from start to finish. This is a fine Lynch Bages from a period when Jean-Michel Cazes seemed to do no wrong. This would be one of my picks from the vintage given its market price. Tasted at the château. May 2018

Old school styled Pauillac, with a combination of strict, austerity and a charming, cedar, tobacco, cigar wrapper, leaf and cassis personality, the wine is full bodied, fully mature, ending with a spicy, cassis finish. Give it an hour of air, at this stage. It will add softness and depth. Tasted March 2017

(5.2 g/l total acidity; 12.9% alcohol): Very deep ruby-red with an amber rim. Evolved nose hints at ripe black cherry, underbrush, leather and licorice. Sweet and soft on the palate, with ripe red cherry, tar and sweet spice flavors. Lovely spicy finish hints at truffle and mushroom. Easy-to-drink and smoothly tannic, but with a trace of dilution in the mid-palate that makes it slightly disappointing in the context of the vintage.