The stunning1999 Pape Clement is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Merlot. The wine is performing better from bottle than it did from cask. There is a fabulous bouquet of smoke, blueberries, raspberry cassis, and liquid minerals. This is a medium to full-bodied, layered, concentrated wine with no hard edges. As it sat in the glass, additional aromas of cedar wood, graphite, and cigar smoke emerged. This is a classic, sexy, knock-out Pessac-Leognan with a surprisingly dense, rich style for a 1999. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2018.

Red-ruby. Roasted plum, hot stones and tobacco on the expressive nose. Ripe, chewy and deep, but also displays noteworthy vinosity; in a dryer, classic style for the vintage. Tannins are a bit less ripe than those of the 2000 but largely avoid dryness.

Mid ruby. Sweet, distinctive, rather medicinal nose. Sweet and fruity rather than earthy. In fact the fruit is more obvious in this wine than in most 1999s. Lots of delivery here even if not in classic mould. (It was interesting to taste the more restrained and classical Domaine de Chevalier alongside this wine – such a contrast!) The tannins on this wine are much less fine and fresh. (JR)