Winemaker and Pomerol deity Jean-Claude Berrouet has often told me how he considers the 1975 Petrus as his first success, the preceding vintages more trial and error. (Those who have savored the 1964, 1966, 1970 and 1971 might beg to differ.) Yet the quality of this 1973 was undeniable. I had encountered it once before, a bottle opened for my brother to celebrate his birth-year over a decade ago when such off-vintages, eschewed by all but the reckless, were affordable. But I could not remember it being this fine. “You should not under-estimate the Pomerols in 1973,” Lord Bruce advised. Who am I to argue in such vinous presence? Whether a horizontal of 1973 Pomerol wines will serve the Vinous readership is another question. The salient lesson from this bottle was to never ever dismiss a bottle by dint of birth-year. Humans and wine alike cannot determine the year they are born. It is more a question of having to search harder in some years than others.

The wine of the vintage, this is the best Petrus for immediate consumption from those wines produced in the seventies. Given the prolific yield in 1973 and diluted quality of many wines, the Petrus is sensationally concentrated, rich, supple, fat, and so, so flavorful. Friends tell me that it is still a delicious wine. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 12/84.