The 1999 Pichon-Lalande has an attractive bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry and light floral scents, although it is missing the mineralité and terroir expression of the best vintages (including the 2016 that I tasted alongside). The palate is rounded on the entry, with supple tannin, gentle grip and a note of licorice infusing the red fruit. There is a pastille-like quality to this 1999, although my criticism is that at 20 years of age it is missing the essence of Comtesse. Balanced, but does not have much to say. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the estate.

The 1999 Pichon Lalande performed inconsistently. This wine is a blend of 47% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. It offers a complex, evolved bouquet of cedar, underbrush, red currants, and spice box. The dark ruby color is not as saturated as many 1999s, and the wine possesses the weight and style of the 1979 and 1981 (both of which are superior to 1999). There is medium body, excellent ripeness, and an angular finish, without the persistence typically found at this chateau. Anticipated maturity: now-2012.