Dark, mature looking ruby; pure, sweet, intense, fragrant, exotic early bouquet, most individual; a beautiful, discreet balance, very fresh, with a lovely concentration and most refined tannins; a mouthwatering combination of ripeness and freshness to taste, subtly mouthcoating, very fragrant, very complex and racy, hugely satisfying in a Burgundian way, and with a great, fresh, peacock’s tail of an aftertaste. Not a particularly big wine, but a great Le Pin all the same, individual, distinctive, an utterly seductive blend of sweetness, fruit, perfume, vitality and silken texture. Now – 2035+

The 2005 Château Le Pin is all Merlot from a tiny vineyard just across from Vieux Château Certain and was raised in new barrels. It has a massive nose of ripe blackberries, kirsch, saddle leather, smoked tobacco, and Mediterranean herbs that turns more floral and violet-laced with air. Medium to full-bodied and beautifully balanced on the palate with ultra-fine tannins, it has an almost Burgundian-like elegance and seamlessness as well as incredible length. It’s not the biggest example from vineyard yet it shows the inherent quality and elegance of the Chateau. Drink bottles over the coming 15-20 years.

The Le Pin 2005 has a very sweet, candied bouquet that actually reminds me slightly of a Super-Tuscan, not in a bad way either. It is a complex set of aromas that bring to mind a burlesque: red cherries, soy, undergrowth, a sprig of heather and lavender. As usual it is one of the most opulent, lascivious Pomerols on the nose and returning to my glass over ten minutes it unfurls with careless abandon. The palate is medium-bodied with fine silky tannins. But it does not quite deliver the same sophistication on the second half that is quite linear, touches of coffee and marmalade with a hint of aniseed on the finish. This is a delicious, quite mercurial Le Pin that you could broach now, though I would prefer to leave it another three or four years.

This exotic effort tends to perform incredibly well when young, middle aged, and old, and all the complaints heard when it is first released that it won’t age well have been proven absurd. The 2005's incredibly fragrant perfume of espresso roast, melted chocolate, cedar, plums, and kirsch soars from the glass of this dense ruby/purple-colored Pomerol. Opulent, even voluptuous, and loaded, it boasts an expansive, full-bodied palate yet good underlying acidity provides definition as well as precision to this blockbuster. Sadly, only 500 cases are produced each year, and those are gobbled up by the world’s billionaires. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025.

While I would not rank the 2005 Le Pin as highly as the 2001, 2000, 1998, 1989, 1983, or 1982, it is still a beautiful wine offering a deep ruby/purple color along with an open-knit nose of caramel, coconut, coffee, melted chocolate, and sweet, jammy black cherry and currant fruit. The alluring fragrance is followed by an opulent, luscious Pomerol with flamboyant flavors of ripe black fruits intermixed with hints of roasted herbs, meat juices, plums, and Asian spices. Unfortunately, the world’s billionaires quickly gobble up Le Pin’s 500 cases, even at preposterously high prices. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.

Good deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, licorice, tobacco, iron, minerals and flowers. Densely packed, juicy and floral if a bit youthfully musclebound; lovely minerality here. Finishes tight and long, with some oak yet to be absorbed. Today I don't find this wine's normal exuberance but then it's in cuve today and in a rather compressed state. By the way, Thienpont lists 2001, 1998, 1994 and 1990 as his favorite vintages for Le Pin.

Tasted blind. Relatively pale. Smells a little simple. Austere and quite tart and simple on the end. A real disappointment. (JR)