Intense and lifted, excellent quality, this has clear depth of flavour, bitter orange, marmalade, saffran, white pepper, cirus, truffle and lime zest, all stretching out through the palate.

The Château Rieussec 2014 is a blend of 93% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle, picked from 15 to 29 October through seven tries, the yield half the normal crop at 13 hectoliters per hectare. Charles Chevalier, how lest we forget started here and not chez Lafite, told me that the beginning of September had overripe grapes with passerillage – the second part had very good levels of botrytis. The blend is from these two parts. The bouquet is very well defined with crystal clear honeysuckle and white peach scents. The palate is beautifully balanced with nigh on perfect acidity that makes this seem just so…effortless. I would like to see a little more persistence on the finish, but otherwise this is classic Rieussec that might...and I stress might...just give that Sauternes beginning with the 25th letter of the alphabet, a run for its money.

The aromas of botrytis are all there. Very spicy mushroom-powder and flower character. Dried-lemon undertones. Full-bodied, medium sweet, dense and flavorful with so much fruit intensity and bright acidity. Vibrant. Drink or hold.

The 2014 Rieussec is rich, creamy and ample. Orange peel, mint, apricot jam and tropical fruits grace the palate in a sensual, rich Sauternes that exudes class. Already showing slightly forward notes in its bouquet, the 2014 will enter its prime drinking window sooner than other recent vintages (the 2013 comes to mind). This is a very pretty and complete Sauternes with all of its elements in the right place.

Tasted blind. Pale gold. Intense aroma of almond paste. Golden and spicy. Chewy, spicy and golden on the palate, too. A big wine, the grip in the texture accentuating the freshness. More power than elegance. But great intensity. (JH)