Fragrant, full of energy, dense with silky tannins, steals up on you as it opens, and this is a gorgeous wine that deserves attention. Chamomile, cumin, cassis, blackberry, cocoa bean, espresso, fresh thyme, tobacco, layered and luscious. This really stayed with me, and I absolutely recommend it, one of the wines of Pomerol in the vintage. Harvest September 8 to 18. Estate signature, 22hl/h yield, 3.75ph. The first year with Guillaume Thienpont fully in charge, although still working alongside his father Alexandre (who began with his own father in 1985).

An outstanding VCC this year and one of the picks of Pomerol. Deep aromatics of dark black fruit that stays cool with some liquorice and cola, plus a soft floral fragrance and chocolate creaminess. Inky and really vibrant colour in the glass. Smooth and supple, both creamy and chalky with black fruit and a heady savoury spiced aspect. I love the stickiness – there’s a chew but it remains cool and lifted, nothing heavy, more comforting like a big hug – velvety, charming and almost sensuous. Acidity doesn't stick out, the focus is on complexity and remarkable texture with ripe tannins. Density is there yet it doesn't feel heavy. Ends so cool with lots of cola, a touch of iron and stones, fresh mint and savoury herbaceousness. Absolutely beautiful, hedonistic and so long. 3.75pH. A yield of 22hl/ha. Ageing two thirds new oak, one third one-year-old barrels.

The 2025 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 8 to 15 at 22 hl/ha and includes two conjoining parcels normally used for the La Gravette. It is raised in two-thirds new oak, the remainder one-year-old. The Merlot sculpts the bouquet with perfumed red cherries, raspberry, cassis and pressed violet scents that gain intensity in the glass. The oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, with powdery tannins on the entry. This must be one of the most peppery VCCs that I have tasted, poivre noir from the Cabernet Franc component. Quite structured, with chalky tannins on the finish, almost as if it came from more limestone soil. Not a crowd pleaser like the 2022, but an intellectual, vertical VCC that will flesh out in barrel. 14.01% alcohol.

Bursting with aromas of violets, crème de cassis, dark berries and creamy new oak, the 2025 Vieux Château Certan is medium- to full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a sun-kissed core of fruit, ripe acids and a dense, unctuous palate, concluding with a heady finish. A blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is quite serious and structured, with sweet tannin, and it checks in at 14% alcohol. William Kelley.

The 2025 Vieux Château Certan is not in the mood to show all its cards. Today, the 2025 shows tons of textural richness and body, but not quite the delineation or energy of the best vintages. Black-toned fruit, gravel, incense, mocha and chocolate are generous in the glass. Ripeness feels pushed to the edge, with fruit perhaps picked a bit later than ideal. But this is a barrel sample, with the wine racked just three weeks prior to my visit. I won't be surprised if this shows better from bottle, but today, this is my impression.