A totally elusive wine, the 2012 Chablis Les Preuses is playing its cards close to the vest. A brilliant, energetic Chablis, the Preuses shows considerable textural depth, but is otherwise not terribly expressive. Hints of lime, grapefruit and crushed rocks emerge over time, but only with great reluctance. A hint of spice suggests the Preuses saw oak, but it was in fact done entirely in steel. Patience is going to be key here.

Fresh, spicy aromas of peach and nectarine. Chewy, intense and penetrating on the palate, with a distinctly dusty, fine-grained texture to its orchard fruit flavors. Still a bit youthfully aggressive but the classically dry finish displays very good grip and length.

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses does not quite have the penetration or delineation of the Vaudesir on the nose and I would have preferred more spiciness to come through. The palate is clean and precise on the citric entry, laced with orange peel and saline notes, although again, it needs to develop more personality and spiciness on the conservative finish. Drink 2016-2025. It is confusing having both a Samuel Billaud and a Billaud-Simon producing wines in Chablis, but unfortunately that is the case while the intra-family dispute goes on. One hopes it is resolved sooner rather than later. Charles Louis Noel Billaud established the estate in 1815, thereby making it one of the forefathers of the region. Bernard Billaud returned to the domaine in 1991, whereupon he seized the opportunity to ratchet up the quality by installing a pneumatic press and stainless steel tanks. I have tasted the wines regularly here in the UK and they have always been impressive. For sure, the 2012s were perhaps a little more inconsistent due to the challenges of the growing season. But the grand crus certainly deliver where it matters – in the glass – while I appreciate the premier crus remaining true to their respective terroirs. Post-script: As this report went to print, news filtered through with regard to the sale of Domaine Billaud-Simon to Maison Faiveley, giving them a strong foothold in the region. How this will impact Samuel Billaud remains to be seen, though it clearly thwarts any hopes of him returning to farming the vines that he once tended (wouldn’t it be a twist if Faiveley subsequently appointed him winemaker!). Exact details are yet to emerge, but hopefully all parties can move forward. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Herbal, citrus fruit, chalky texture – has better texture and interest than their Vaudésir. Tight, bright, zingy. (RH)