The 2014 Gevrey Chambertin les Evocelles was nearly totally millerandage-affected, and as a consequence it was the ripest picking at 12.6 degrees potential. It offers strawberry pastilles and blackcurrant on the nose, a hint of wild heather. This is very intriguing. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent red berry fruit, orange zest and minerals, crisp and taut with good delineation and intensity on the finish. This is excellent -- one of the best from Louis Boillot this year.

(12. 6% alcohol without chaptalization; from 100% millerandé grapes, according to Boillot): Deep red-ruby. Musky reduction to the aromas of black cherry, licorice and mocha. Thick, sappy and rich; almost freakishly dense and solid for 2014 but still a bit reduced and bound-up. All of these wines were racked in August but this one remains totally closed. Boillot won't bottle this wine until May. If it develops more juiciness by then, it may well merit a score beyond the top end of my range.

Lively and with lots of freshness – after this rich chestnutty impact. Dry finish. (JR)