The 2021 Meursault Les Clous has a tightly wound bouquet with light resinous, waxy aromas, a touch of white tea emerging almost reluctantly. The palate is well balanced with a clever reduction at play, though it does miss some tension and complexity on the finish. Probably one for short-term consumption.

Full bottle 1,322 g. BP & F own half of the 18.4-ha Les Clous limestone-marl vineyard. The fruit from each plot was vinified separately and aged for 8 to 10 months in French oak barrels (up to 10% new) and then 2–3 months in tank. Glowing gold. Light nose and without much concentration on the palate. Attractive satin texture but without that much flavour. It's recognisably white burgundy but doesn't have much conviction though the finish is neat and medium-length. Very light oak influence. This is neither the rich, buttery old-fashioned style of Meursault nor the new, more austere one. The Oliver Zeter whites I have just tasted are much better value. (JR)