The 2012 Montrachet Grand Cru has an introverted, stony bouquet that unlike the Chevalier Cabotte demands some coaxing from the glass. There are subtle notes of pear drop and apricot blossom that surface with time. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with touches of blackberry leaf. This is very focused and long in the mouth, although perhaps I prefer the La Cabotte this year. Drink 2016-2030+ Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

Bright, pale yellow. Brooding aromas of apple, cinnamon and white flowers. Fat, broad and sweet; rich in dry extract but very young and unevolved today. The back end displays enticing saline minerality but also a distinctly phenolic, even tannic impression. No shortage of acidity here.

Buttery, transparent fruit that has brilliant citrus, peach and green citrus aroma. It’s excellent stuff from the ultimate Chardonnay co-ordinates – an easy choice when money isn’t a consideration. (RH)