(just 20% new oak) Exotic aromas of lime, quinine, nuts, stone and sulfides. The sulfidey complexity carries through in the mouth, which features a stronger impression of acidity and more palate-staining intensity. Fat, spicy, rather powerful wine with excellent depth of flavor for the vintage.

Picked exceptionally early between 23 and 31 August. Very hot summer nights sent acid levels plummeting. Deep orangey gold. Not much nose. Sweet palate entry. A bit heavy, but not oxidised. Hint of caramel and custard. Difficult to see the acidity and freshness. A bit of heat. Almost 14% (premiers crus were 14.5% in 2003). Robert Vifian calls it a monster. Such low acid! Still very astringent and slightly bitter. Not for me – though it’s possible that it could be revived by the perfect food match. A curiosity. Sweet! (JR)