Still remarkably tight for a villages level '97, combining beautiful, slightly austere mineral fruit aromas with medium weight, classically pure and cut flavors of real elegance and grace. Stunning quality here for its level and this is a strict wine, which is to say that those looking for Meursault opulence and warmth will not find it here; rather, this is classic Puligny and this easily delivers 1er quality. First rate for what it is. Consistent notes.

Revealing candied almonds, marzipan, and over-ripe pear aromas, the Puligny-Montrachet Enseigneres is very opulent. Spiced apples, caramel, poached white fruits, and grilled oak can be found in this thick and medium-to-full-bodied offering. Its finish, rather austere and chalky, prevented it from meriting a higher rating. Drink it between now and 2004. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

Smoky, leesy, apricot-scented nose. Not quite the density or flesh of the Rougeot and dominated by its structure today. This is quite dry, penetrating and backward, and seems lower in residual sugar. From five-year-old vines.