The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a tightly wound, stony and rather stoic bouquet at first, one that demands patience. This is not as immediate as its peers. Eventually there are subtle rose petal notes, orange zest and cold granite aromas that unfurl, giving a fleeting glimpse -- a premonition of what is to come. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, touches of orange rind infusing the blackberry and blueberry fruit, controlled and quite structured towards the finish that has great nervosité. Alongside the Clos Saint-Jacques this is Bruno Clair's best 2014.

Medium red. Sexy scents of cranberry, dried flowers, dried herbs, pepper and spices. Wonderfully dense and sappy on the palate. In a cooler, more metallic style than the Clos de Bèze but with superb precision and energy. Harder to taste today but the wine's tactile palate-staining finish and uncanny energy suggest that it will be a real long-distance runner. Two-thirds of these vines were planted between 1965 and 1978 but the Clos de Bèze is older.

Rich and crackling with masses of energy. A tad light. But it’s a cranberry fest and lots of fun. (JR)