Bright yellow. Subtly complex nose melds Asian pear, violet, lavender, ginger, iodine and powdered stone. Tactile and dense on entry, then creamy in the middle, conveying an impression of great volume without weight. This extremely backward, youthfully understated Clos firms up dramatically on the back end, finishing with palate-saturating citrus and talc flavors that refuse to fade. One of the longest Chablis bottlings I tasted for this issue, this truly transcends chardonnay.

The 2007 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is showstopping on the nose with yellow plum, pressed white flowers, crushed pebbles and a dab of wild mint/fennel. Wonderful delineation. The palate is beginning to stretch its arms with stunning balance, still extremely citrus-driven and tensile, gaining weight and depth towards the finish. You feel that this is just starting to enter a sweet spot. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.