Sourced from Denis Bachelet’s 70-year old vines, this has a wonderful lifted nose brimming with vigour. Red cherries, wild strawberry and a touch of graphite: superb delineation. The palate is very pure with lovely balance and fabulous definition. Firm but not obtrusive tannins with cherry, wild strawberry and cranberry towards the finish, Great weight and persistency on the finish. Pure class. Drinking 2012-2020. Tasted January 2007.

Bachelet’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – from 60- to 70-year-old vines both below the route nationale and north of Gevrey in Brochon – offers lovely black fruit aromas with hints of anise and mint. A truly palate-staining intensity of vividly-fresh, tart but ripe black cherry and blackberry is underlain by firm, fine tannins (not precluding an emerging silkiness of texture) and augmented by bitter-herbal and stony notes. Although palpably dense and abundantly tannic, this outstanding village wine still comes off as juicy, sleek, invigorating and refined. Put it away for at least 5-7 years. (The 2004 Bachelet crus, incidentally, are refined, well-concentrated classics for that vintage, juxtaposing tart fresh fruit with a subtle creaminess, and very much worth cellaring for a few years.) Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.

Good deep medium ruby. Reticent aromas of blackberry, licorice and game. Dense, sweet and powerful but quite primary and closed today. This really coats the palate with flavor but will be slow to evolve. Has the strong material to support the substantial tannins. "These wines will be even darker once they have lost their CO2," noted Bachelet.