Good dark red. Seductive scents of briary berries, brown spices, smoky underbrush and wild herbs. At once silky and intense on entry, then shapely and penetrating in the middle palate, offering a captivating combination of sweet dark fruits and saline earth tones. This concentrated, long wine finishes with serious but suave tannins.

The 2016 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru, the usual blend of four premier crus (mainly Ruchots), has an engaging and well-defined, elegant bouquet with more red fruit than the village cru. I admire the focus and purity of the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite saline with a brisk, lightly spiced finish. Excellent—this is real class and comes highly recommended.

Les Ruchots, Les Millandes, Les Sorbès and Les Charrières. Barrel sample. Deep crimson. Rich and liqueur-like. Pretty dramatic. Exotic and long. Really makes a splash. Not pure but pure hedonism. A bit oaky at the moment. (JR)