The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru contains around two-thirds young vines and one-third 20- to 30-year-old vines. It has a pleasant green apple and orange pith bouquet, although it lacks the penetration of the 2017 tasted a year earlier. The palate is taut and fresh, with citrus lemon and a lovely saline note that defines the final half. Not an overly complex Folatières, but it will give pleasure over the next decade, possibly more.

Farmed by the Dujacs even if not owned by them so it can be labelled as a domaine wine. They do a foulage (whole grapes through crusher) to bring a bit of bitterness, following Roulot. Tank sample. Delicate citrus nose. Tight, fresh, chalky in texture, almost austere in its shape but there’s a creaminess all tied up in the freshness. (JH)