One of the highlights in this range, the 2011 Mazoyères-Chambertin, from a parcel next to Charmes and a stone's throw from Dugat's other Mazoyères parcel (used in the Charmes), is absolutely striking. Sweet herbs, licorice, violets, lavender and spices lift from the glass in an electric, nuanced Burgundy loaded with class. The inclusion of 80% stems gives the Mazoyères a sense of weightlessness that balances the intensity of the fruit beautifully. What a gorgeous wine this is. The 2011 saw 100% new oak.

(90% vendange entier): Deep, bright ruby: this has to be one of the darkest wines of my November tour. Multifaceted nose offers black fruits, licorice, minerals and a whiff of bloody steak, plus complicating notes of mint and leather. Dense, silky and noble, offering uncanny concentration to its crunchy dark berry and licorice flavors. Imploded today but not overly muscular; in fact, this boasts superb finesse and harmony for a wine from this cellar. Really titillates the taste buds on the sweet, rising finish. I suspect that this grand cru will be accessible in a few years owing to its relative roundness.