Vinified with half whole clusters and aged in nearly all new barrels, Esmonin’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (nicknamed “Sylvie”) originates in vines of 60 or more years of age in a variety of parcels including the Clos Prieur. The parcels are fermented separately, then blended at pressing. The atmospheric pressure had been unwilling to cooperate so these barrels and those of the Clos St.-Jacques remained un-racked, but I tasted a representative blend. A deep aroma of black cherry, beef stock and dark chocolate leads into a striking mouthful of chocolate richness and sweet, subtly caramelized ripeness, yet possessed of the same sort of bright fresh fruit as is the “regular” Gevrey cuvee, along with a deep-seated, soy- and meat-stock savor. Persistent ripe richness is accompanied in the finish by rumbling, rolling low tones of stones and chalk and at the same time high-pitched notes of black fruit distillates and salt. Sylvie Esmonin is a staunch believer in the use of whole clusters with stems (“the method of my grandfather’s day”) to enhance florality, fruit and structure, which presupposes late harvest. But she claims that this method of vinification itself helps moderate the efficiency of alcoholic conversion. In any event, levels of alcohol were the last thing noticeable as I was wowed by this year’s collection which, as usual, she planned not to begin bottling any earlier than April. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191.

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is drinking beautifully. It delivers a lovely nose of red cherries and redcurrants, quite plush in style, though the passing of 20 years has lent it a melted quality. The palate is opulent but fresh and nicely delineated. The fruit verges on blueberry and cassis as the wine becomes supple and lithe on the precocious finish. Very harmonious with impressive substance, this should not be overlooked. Tasted at the Sanglier dinner in Burgundy.

Deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black cherry, chocolate and minerals. Velvety in texture and compellingly sweet, with considerable power to its black cherry and chocolate flavors; faint whiff of prune. In a very ripe and powerful style, but here there's more middle-palate stuffing to support the serious tannins. This may need a decade of aging to harmonize.

Relatively dark crimson. Very rich and really rather majestic. Long and seriously deep and well-balanced and promising for the money. GV (JR)