(from two parcels of vines that total 2.55 ha, or 22% of the entire appellation). As I suggested in my in-barrel review, this had the potential to be a first rate stunner of a wine and it has indeed come together. In fact, I see no need to modify the original note, which I repeat here other than to point out that as good as the Valmur and Vaudésir, there is another dimension present here. Green fruit and citrus aromas with a subtle trace of quinine serve to highlight round, sweet and powerful flavors that possess enormous depth of material and the vibrancy of the finish is flat out unbelievable. In a sense, this is a deceptive wine in that no more than the finish appears to be winding down then it picks up again. At present, this is the longest and most persistent wine in the range and while this aspect is subject to change with time, it is a dazzling effort that vies credibly for top honors. I could still taste this wine the next day! Drink 2011+"

The 2004 Chablis Les Preuses (domaine) reveals a nose of intense purity. Its aromas of gravel, stones, candied citrus fruits, pears, and hints of toast lead to a crystalline, medium-bodied character. This feminine effort’s broad personality is filled with minerals, stones, iodine, and fresh herbs whose flavors linger in its amazingly long, detailed finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2014.

The 2004 Chablis Les Preuses (domaine) reveals a nose of intense purity. Its aromas of gravel, stones, candied citrus fruits, pears, and hints of toast lead to a crystalline, medium-bodied character. This feminine effort’s broad personality is filled with minerals, stones, iodine, and fresh herbs whose flavors linger in its amazingly long, detailed finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2014. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Lemon, spice, anise and hazelnut on the complex nose, along with a suggestion of oyster shell. Then densely packed and sweet, with superb energy and cut. There's an almost iodiney reserve here, and yet the wine is almost accessible today owing to its juicy sweetness of fruit and silky texture. Very elegantly styled Chablis, less minerally and austere than the Valmur but with compelling richness for the vintage.