The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru shows why this site is so highly regarded. Even with all of the challenges of the growing season, all of the personality of this 1er Cru comes through loud and clear. Pale in color yet remarkably deep, the 2017 offers up a compelling mélange of citrus and orchard fruits perked up by bright acids and striking floral overtones. Weightless yet powerful, with explosive energy and superb balance, the 2017 Clos is fabulous. Readers who can find it should not hesitate.

Very attractive, fresh peach and lemon aromas here with some gentle, biscuit and pastry-like, savory nuances. The palate has very expressive and mouth-filling white peaches and lemons with toasted-hazelnut flavors that warm the long, succulent finish. An excellent Montée. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from 2.2-ha of vine, harvested around 22hl/ha. It has a crisp, slightly floral bouquet with oyster leaf, dill, fresh citrus fruit and a touch of wet limestone. The palate is lively and fresh in the mouth and shows a little more depth and concentration than the Mont de Milieu. It flows and fans out nicely towards the finish and should offer several years of drinking pleasure.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre opens in the glass with notes of waxy lemon rind, oyster shell and a light framing of reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and chalky, with a touch less cut and character than is found in Fèvre's best renditions of this site, those qualities likely a casualty of the frost that struck Montée de Tonnerre this year.

Herby notes with ripe green citrus and a touch of bitter juniper character. Concentrated apple fruit that has enough charge to mature well. (RH)