Delivering scents of orange oil, white flowers and oyster shell, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave, with racy acids and a saline finish, showing little trace of the hot, sunny vintage. As usual, it's derived from old vines in Les Minots (that are a source for the Fèvre massal selection), as well as holdings in Roncières and Chatains.

The 2021 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru had been blended the previous week, during which a majority of the lees is kept. Often one of my favorite cuvées from William Fevre, the entrancing bouquet has impressive intensity on the nose. The palate is well-balanced with lemon verbena and touches of pear, a fine sense of energy and composure, and a persistent finish. This already looks very promising.

Tank sample. Herbal citrus aroma, again plenty of Chablis stony minerality. More intense and a little riper on the palate than the Montmains. Deeper fruited. Rounded and better harmony. (JH)