Unwinding in the glass with aromas of peach, lemon oil, freshly baked bread, oyster shell and struck match, Fèvre's 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, with a racy, electric profile and a searingly saline, intensely penetrating finish of striking persistence. This is a terrific Valmur that will merit at least a decade's patience to reveal all its considerable potential.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2020 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru has a more reductive bouquet that currently suppresses the terroir. It just needs more personality, and perhaps that will develop with further bottle aging. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip. It builds confidently in the mouth with a sapid, spicy finish that suggests Les Preuses. Maybe it needs a little more persistence, but overall, this is a satisfying Chablis Grand Cru. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Lightly smoky nose – much tighter than the Bougros Côte Bouguerots, and with fine acidity. A model of restraint. (JR)