(this finished its malolactic fermentation last, as the barrels are in the coldest spot in the cellar, directly beneath a draft from the ground floor, which remained cold in 2013 due to the chilly, rainy spring): Bright medium red. Musky black fruits, game, violet and smoky minerality on the profound nose and palate. Creamy-sweet and uncommonly deep, combining great density and snap. The intense, superconcentrated fruit flavors completely cover the wine's suave tannins today. This saturates every square millimeter of the palate and leaves the mouth glistening on the extremely long, rising finish. I'd give this beauty at least eight to ten years in the cellar. "Two thousand twelve is the first vintage I've made where I'm content," said van Canneyt after we sampled this wine. (He has vinified on his own since 2008.) When I happened to mention to him how much I enjoyed the 1988 Romanee-Saint-Vivant, he told me he was born that year! Never mind.

Iron, smoke, black cherries, menthol and dark fruit are some of the many notes that take shape as the 2012 Richebourg opens up. Dark and brooding to the core, the 2012 is built on a serious core of structure, with more than enough intensity in its fruit to fill out its broad shoulders quite nicely. There is little question the 2012 is going to need time to come together, but it is striking today all the same. This is one of the most polished and elegant wines I have ever tasted from Hudelot Noellat.