A candidate for extended cellaring in Jadot's range this year is the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Domaine du Duc de Magenta), a beautifully incisive wine that meets the high expectations I formed when I tasted it from barrel a year ago. Opening in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, peach, fresh pastry and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and youthfully tight-knit, with fabulous structural tension and a racy spine of acidity. Bottled under Diam 30, this tensile but concentrated Morgeot will really begin to sing in six or seven years.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle – a monopole of the domaine, released as usual under the Duc de Magenta label – has an attractive white peach and white-chocolate-tinged bouquet that gains intensity with aeration, displaying impressive definition and vigor. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, more complex than the Abbaye de Morgeot and more nuanced toward the poised, mineral-driven finish. The slight nuttiness on the aftertaste completes a very impressive Chassagne. (DIAM GC closure)