The 2005 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru from Maison Louis Jadot is a cuvée no longer produced since the fermage expired. It offers dark plummy fruit mixed with pain d’épices on the youthful nose, though it does not quite deliver the nuance of Griotte’s finest exponents. The palate has structure and grip, layered with dark berry fruit laced with tar, dark chocolate and graphite. It coheres nicely towards the finish and delivers the precision that I wish the nose expressed. Still, a decent showing for a 20-year-old wine.

(this is purchased wine, from a blend of old and young vines) Bright red-ruby. Spicy red cherry aroma with a floral topnote. Offers moderate stuffing but very good definition and lift, with a ripe chocolatey note. Has class but the finish shows a slight dryness and could be longer.

Rather pale sample. Richly autumnal on the nose and then very angular tannin and acidity. Not the real integration and weight of fruit one might hope for. Very chewy and dry. Sandpaper stuff. (JR)