The 2017 Givry 1er Cru Clos Du Cellier Aux Moines is the deepest, most concentrated of Joblot's 2017s but also—appropriately—the most backward at this early stage. The wine offers up lovely aromas of ripe red cherries, candied peel and flowers, and on the palate, it's full-bodied, juicy and initially expansive, but it's still tight-knit at the core. The purity of its expression of fruit is impressive, and from bottle, I suspect it to rank as the finest of these premiers crus. Drink N/A. WK

Since the wines of Domaine Joblot were last reviewed by this publication, Juliette Joblot has taken over the helm of Givry's preeminent domaine from her father Jean-Marc and uncle Vincent. While the fundamentals remain the same—severe debudding and green harvest, 100% destemming and significant percentages of new François Frères cooperage—there have been some subtle changes. Most obviously, the percentage of new wood is slightly lower: down from some 70% to a more discrete 50%—a judicious development that only improves upon a tried-and-tested formula, and which is especially welcome in the domaine's whites. There are also a few changes of cuvée nomenclature with which followers of the Joblot wines will want to be conversant: the generic Givry Rouge, formerly named Pied De Chaume, now carries the moniker Givry Préface (I didn't taste it on this visit); and the white Givry 1er Cru La Servoisine is now combined with the domaine's old-vine holdings in 1er Cru En Veau to yield the Givry 1er Cru Mademoiselle. On the red side of the ledger, a new cuvée Givry 1er Cru L'Empreinte represents a blend of small lots taken from each of the Domaine's 1er Crus planted with Pinot Noir (it hadn't yet been assembled when I visited). In both colors, the Joblot family produce serious wines with substance and structure that develop beautifully, as recent encounters with bottles from the 1989 and 1990 vintages attest. This is one of the finest sources of red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise, and I can't recommend them enough.