The 2013 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves has a very expressive, quite floral bouquet that is more feminine and seductive than the Aigrots ’13 at the moment (although really they are just two different things.) The palate is very well balanced, extremely pure with sappy red berry fruit that exert a gentle grip in the mouth, while there is excellent weight on the effortless finish. Is there a Beaune Grèves better than this in 2013? Probably not. Utterly divine.

(80% of the crop was lost to hail): Dark red. Blackberry and blueberry on the nose. A step up in complexity and depth from the Aigrots, offering good sweetness and cut to its dark berry flavors. Finishes fresh and firmly tannic, with lovely lingering perfume. (Incidentally, the badly hailed-on Pommard Pezerolles went into the estate's Bourgogne in 2013.)

90-year-old vines – their oldest. Firm and dense on the nose. Very splendid and gorgeous. Spreads right across palate in a minerally way. Very subtle and with the acidity not too pronounced. (JR)