The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is a magical bottle in the making, wafting from the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of plums, cassis and warm spices, complemented by subtle hints of raw cocoa, peonies and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, layered and complete, it's elegantly powerful, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, perfumed finish. Finer-boned than the 2018 or the 2015 rendition before it, this is an exquisite wine from the Lafarge family.

The 2019 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a pretty and exceptionally pure bouquet with red cherries, kirsch, cranberry and crushed limestone aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little chewiness towards the finish, dense with a grippy, broody finish. This will require time - a Volnay with a bit of "grunt".