The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes wafts from the glass with aromas of cassis, dark berry fruit and plums mingled with notions of warm spices, orange rind, rose petals and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's pure and vibrant, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, penetrating finish. It's a magical wine in the making.

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a pretty nose with airy redcurrant and crushed strawberry fruit. It is not complex, though it conveys a sense of Pinoté. Returning to my glass, it begins to blossom, though it keeps its foot on the brake. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity. There is more complexity here than aromatically, with a crisp, quite spicy finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.