The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is another brilliant rendition of one of contemporary Burgundy's most fascinating wines. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of lime zest, white flowers, wet stones, oyster shell and subtle reduction, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a multidimensional core of fruit that's framed by racy acids and huge reserves of chalky dry extract. Incisive, penetrating and tightly wound, anyone lucky enough to acquire a bottle or two should plan on a minimum of a decade's patience.

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité 1er Cru has a taut and focused bouquet with petrichor, Granny Smith apples, touches of orange pith emerging with time. This builds and builds. The palate is well balanced with a touch of white pepper on the entry, a keen line of acidity, superb matière towards the persistent finish.