Bright, light yellow. Reticent reduced nose opens slowly with air to offer scents of soft citrus fruits, lime oil, clove and white flowers. Thicker on entry than the Combettes, showing more baby fat in the early going. But still dry and classic, even tight, in the mid-palate, with a strong menthol character keeping the fruit under wraps. Finishes bone-dry but smooth and long, without any phenolic character. This will need time in bottle to expand.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles has an open bouquet that to be honest, feels a little tight-lipped following the more garrulous and expressive Meursault Sous Le Dos d'Ane. There is strictness and conservatism surrounding the nose of this Les Pucelles, but hold on, for after 5-10 minutes it reveals tempting smoke, flint and even a faint scent of wild fennel. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity. It feels a little spicy on the entry with moderate depth, reserved in style with impressive depth on the finish that just needs to muster a little more nervosité throughout its ageing. Very fine, but certainly a wine that I would keep. Tasted December 2016.

Great density on the palate seems to pull the aromas earthwards but there is a great weight here. Lots of substance. (JR)