(Saouma combines wine from the upper and lower parts of this grand cru to make this bottling): Wonderfully vibrant aromas of lemon, crushed rock and lavender sea salt. A juicy, penetrating wine of great intensity and nobility; pure, deep and palate-caressing. This could not be more different from the Batard-Montrachet. Utterly seamless in the mouth, boasting outstanding concentration to its flavors of citrus peel, pear and liquid stone. Displays impeccable balance from the start but this incredible wine is just at the beginning of its development. The endless, sappy finish leaves behind a note of cinnamon. One of my early candidates for wine of the vintage.

For reports and full tasting notes, go to Tim Atkin MW's website.

The 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru had a reticent bouquet when I tasted it from barrel, much more taciturn than the Bâtard. The palate is a different matter - tensile and nervous, a superb seam of acidity and great weight towards the finish. Everything is here - a great, indeed "kingly" Chevalier in the making.